Archive for June, 2006

Egypt: To Market, To Market

Egypt 2006 Wednesday, June 28th, 2006 by admin

The last couple of days have been quite eventful. Yesterday was a real cultural experience as the girls and I went to the Khan-al-khalili market in the Islamic quarter of Cairo. On the way there our taxi driver pointed out some of the sights including the Citadel, a massive fortress that seems to extend as far as the eye can see. Traffic was busy but we soon wound our way down into what seems to be the heart of the city.

Teeming with people the market was alive and well at 7 at night. Some stalls stay open until 5 in the morning. Anyway, we set out and immediately got lost in the sea of tourists, touts, and vendor’s wares. I always get a little nervous when I go to a large market, not only because you have to keep a good eye on your purse. Overwhelmed with choice I mostly buy nothing, unable to decide. But I was a bit more impulsive this time around and bought plenty of gifts to fill my spare suitcase on the way home.

I usually get annoyed too, at the ceaseless, “Hey, come into my shop” or “Just one look, please.” But there was something refreshing and earnest about the vendors’ simple need to make a living. We had a few charming interactions with shopowners, even stopping for tea and a nice long haggle with a scarf seller. For me, it was a cultural experience that showed Egyptian friendliness, intelligence (many spoke several languages), and daring. And I bought some cool stuff, too.

After several hours we hailed another taxi cab, or rather had one procured for us for a fee, and went to the mall in Maadi to run some errands and window shop.

Our taxi driver, Youssef (or Joseph) was a surprisingly engaging man who talked nonstop all the way there. An engineer by training, he like many other Egyptians couldn’t find a job and so resorted to driving a taxi cab. But he seemed pleasantly resigned to his fate, enjoying the prospects of meeting nice, interesting people every day. He gave us another tour of the sights including Al-Azhar and the City of the Dead and even offered to stop so I could take a picture. Since we were speeding down the highway, I declined. We had a very informative chat all the way to the mall where he regaled us with his views on President Bush, Mubarak, education, Christianity, and more. When we arrived he even gave me his telephone number in case I need to call for a ride. Not that I will use it.

Today we went again to the Sudanese preschool. Class went well but I think we are facing some difficulties as we develop this pilot program. Language barriers and cultural barriers combine to muddle communication and we are facing a monumental task of developing curriculum and preparing all the materials for class in a timely manner. That and searching for new ways to keep the children engaged but not run out of time to review the basics has led to some interesting discussion. At times I feel frustrated because I didn’t know what I was getting myself into, nor what was expected of me and no one has really made that explicit. I also feel like I can see a lot further and envision a broader picture beyond simple recitation and memorization of the ABCs. However, I am presented with the novel experience of working with inexperienced, well maybe not inexperienced, but new workers in this particular ministry and I cannot expect everything to go smoothly. Nor can I let my type A(-) personality run amok and take over ownership of every task. It is a fine line to walk and a humbling experience. On the other hand I have done more coloring in this past week than I think I have done in my entire life. And working with 2-3 year olds, NOT my age group of choice, has been a challenge.

After, we had Egyptian food called koushery (sp?) It seemed kind of like a casserole gone crazy, a mixture of pasta, lentils, tomato sauce, and some other unidentifiable objects. It was alright but not my favorite.

The rest of the day I spent napping, reading, and coloring some more. Tomorrow I will go register and pay for my Arabic course and then, you guessed it…color.

Egypt: Keeping On

Egypt 2006 Monday, June 26th, 2006 by admin

I have been here for a week now and am well adjusted to my new life. Even walking to and from the grocery store feels familiar. That said, I feel pretty lazy today. I didn’t really do anything, because it was too hot. In this weather, I have to be careful and pace myself even if I do feel rather sloth-like.

This morning my parents called rather early so I ended up going to bed after talking to them. I must say I feel like part of the modern world again with a working cell phone. For a few days it was nice to not have to worry about the interruption of constant ringing, but it is a good tool to have when you’re out and about or as a link to back home. You can’t be on Skype all the time!

So I went back to bed until it was time to leave for the preschool. The kids had a hard time settling down in the beginning, but I think having a clearer plan of action made things go much more smoothly after that. Last time we were searching for something to do to fill the time, today we finished and looked at the clock and it was time to go. We are starting to do a letter per day now, in order to finish the alphabet in a reasonable amount of time. It also helps keep things active so the kids get less bored, at least some of the quicker ones. So we did the letter C today and displayed some beautiful posters of a car, cat, and a cookie that Sergio had drawn. Then we colored cats and the kids spent a lot more time on these coloring sheets than they have on other ones. We also played a new game with several items in a bag, including apples, bananas, and boats that the kids drew out with their eyes closed and then had to identify. I think it went well. And of course, we gave them cookies at the end and the blessed silence was amazing. Usually they are pounding on the tables or crying or doing whatever it is young children do that makes noise, but give them a cookie and they sit there quietly munching. So all in all, it was a successful day.

On our way back to Maadi, we got stopped by the police. They were stopping everyone but I think they could tell we were foreigners and assumed we had money. They tried to scare us with the threat of an infraction but clearly they only wanted money. I think it was annoying but you also have to sympathize with the fact that they are struggling to make ends meet and don’t get paid hardly anything at all. That doesn’t justify the inappropriate methods of arbitrary pullovers and bribes, but when I look at them I see families they are trying to feed and an ineffectual government that doesn’t feed its employees. Anyway, we made our way back home and Mary Carmen set about making lunch.

We had hamburgers and french fries which were delicious if a little heartburn-inducing. Mary Carmen anyway, not me. They were very good but afterwards I was stuffed and didn’t feel like doing anything.

After washing the dishes I started on a book Gene loaned me that details the making of the modern Middle East as we know it today. I know sketches of the history surrounding the fall of the Ottoman Empire and British and French interference, but this is a much more complete account of the time period between 1914 and 1922. So I am reading that to get a better feel for the area by knowing its historical context.

Afterward, I took a nap and slept most of the rest of the day away. Tomorrow we are going to the Khan al Khalili market so I am excited about that. I will try to post some pictures as well. I have quite a few cute ones of the Sudanese children.

Egypt: Heating Up

Egypt 2006 Sunday, June 25th, 2006 by admin

Don’t have much to report. Had a relatively quiet Sunday with a team meeting, delicious lunch of stuffed peppers, and a late night trip to the mall. The mall stays open later here due to the heat and subsequent schedule shift. I know what you’re all thinking, but the mall really is a cultural experience.

People smoke, the mannequins are fully clothed from head to toe, and there are whole shops devoted to head scarves. I am tempted to buy one because there are so many beautiful ones, embroidered or dolled up with sequins but the selection is so massive there is no way I could ever choose.

I also finally purchased a SIM card, so I am now mobile once again. It felt different not to have a cell phone latched to my side at all times, but I must say I am happy to be reachable again. Also Skype shows great promise, so for all of you stuck in the Stone Age, go out and download it. It’s free and cheap.

Tomorrow we are going to the Sudanese hadana again, this time to focus on the letter C. And it’s supposed to be 105 degrees! So wish me luck.

Safe travel to the Russia team this week.

Egypt: Recovering

Egypt 2006 Saturday, June 24th, 2006 by admin

I think I am finally over whatever was ailing my stomach the past couple of days. Thank goodness for that. I was starting to feel like a weakling, not really able to fully participate in anything.

Today the girls and I woke early to catch the metro down to Helwan where they had a review session with their Arabic teacher. Helwan is a very different area of Cairo from Maadi. Maadi seems quiet, even suburban in comparison. Helwan is a poorer area, complete with crowds, shoeshiners lining the sidewalk, and the sounds of ongoing construction. It was very hot and quite the journey to the home of Marta, Rocio and Mary Carmen’s Arabic teacher, who also happens to speak Spanish. This made me resolve to speak more English with the girls as it is clear that they speak way too much Spanish with each other, their friends, and even their teacher as they learn another language.

Anyway I spent the morning reading and catching up in my journal while the girls went over their Level One material. They have a test coming up to see if they are ready to move on to Level Two. The class lasted about two hours and soon we were on our way back to Maadi. Today was my turn to cook lunch so we stopped at a grocery store and purchased some pasta, olives, and cheese, among other things. Once home I set about cooking grilled cheese sandwiches and pasta salad. It wasn’t half bad, but I sure am glad I only have to cook twice a week. After, I was tired so I laid down and took a lengthy nap. I’m not sure how hot it was today but it was hot enough that I took a shower around 8 this evening, which was cool and refreshing.

I have spent the rest of the evening preparing some material for my classes and helping Rocio with the program for the Sudanese hadana. We also listened to the Argentina-Mexico game on online radio and I’m pretty sure Mexico lost 2-1. Sorry Mary Carmen. Anyway, that’s about all I have to report.

Egypt: Adjustment

Egypt 2006 Friday, June 23rd, 2006 by admin

I haven’t been up to posting the last couple of days. I don’t know what it is about international travel, you think you’re invincible or something. I managed to travel to Senegal, South Korea, Thailand, Spain, to name a few, and not get sick once. But here in Egypt I caught something that didn’t agree with me. Whether it was the water or a touch of food poisoning, my body has been fighting off something unfamiliar for the past couple of days. I am starting to feel better but it takes little to fatigue me and I have been catching up on rest and hydration.

Needless to say I haven’t done a whole lot. Spent most of the day in bed after my late Wednesday night. Spent Thursday evening playing games with the kids and resting. This morning I went to Maadi Community Church for the 9:30 service. Although I was concentrating on not being sick, I enjoyed the music and the international meeting of cultures. It is a very welcoming atmosphere, I think, largely because they are used to people coming and going a great deal.

After church we stopped to get some water. We didn’t have any water this morning, as I discovered when I tried to take a shower. As we got home, I thought I was going to be sick. I have a fairly good early warning system, but luckily it was a false alarm as the water still hadn’t been turned back on when we got home. I promptly went to bed and then spent the majority of the afternoon sleeping.

Upon awakening I got ready to meet with my future students. Today we had a preliminary meeting to discuss materials and times to meet. I will have four students, but only three were able to come today. It is a little strange since they are roughly my age, but I am excited about the opportunity. They are very eager to improve their English and the possibilities are endless. We are going to meet Sundays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays in the early evening. So that will be another way to minister as well as occupy my time as I imagine my Type-A ways will take over as I overprepare for class.

Anyway, just thought I’d let you know I’m still alive. Barely (only joking). Tomorrow is my day to cook and we are cleaning the house. Yay.